Archives July 2010

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Old names build new face in the Rhone


Launching a new wine brand is always an exciting but tricky enterprise; but seeking to build an image in a region as established as the Rhône imposes an extra layer of challenge and outside speculation.


This is precisely the task confronting Maison Nicolas Perrin, a joint venture between the Perrin family of Beaucastel fame and Nicolas Jaboulet, surely one of the more resonant surnames in the northern Rhône.

Not that this offers much of a brand-building advantage: for legal reasons the name Jaboulet can only appear tucked away in the small print on the back label.

Although there has been a long-standing friendship between the two families, this business partnership was only born in spring 2009, when Jaboulet decided to move on from his own family firm.

"We thought it could be time to do something together," he recalls, explaining of Perrin: "I love their philosophy. They try to make wines that go with food - they even have their own restaurant - and they're not wines you necessarily need to wait 10-15 years before you can drink."

Jaboulet describes Perrin, which takes responsibility for cellaring, bottling and shipping the wine as "the big technical partner", while explaining his own role as "more the face behind the project", fostering relationships with growers and building a client base for this new brand.

Having released its first wines just last year, Nicolas Perrin has already built UK listings through agent Pol Roger UK with partners including The Wine Society, Berry Bros. and Taurus Wines. Further afield, the brand is busy building a customer base in the US and mature Asian markets of Hong Kong, Japan and Singapore.

This rapid early progress is no doubt helped by the 12 years spent by Jaboulet in an export role for his family business. "I'm convinced that Asia and Asian food are great for the future of wine," he says. "They have a real culture of gastronomy." On the down side though, Jaboulet notes: "The problem is tax in some countries like India and Thailand; it stops the development of business."

Despite the advantages offered by his export background, Jaboulet is clearly relishing the involvement he now has on the production side. He describes the role of Nicolas Perrin as very much a négociant-eleveur, purchasing the wines as early as possible after malolactic fermentation, then nurturing them until they reach the far end of the supply chain.

For the moment, the priority has been to identify key parcels of land in the northern Rhône, such as the Plan de Chassis in Hermitage, and then approach roughly three producers in those areas to buy some barrels from which Nicolas Perrin creates its own unique blend.

Jaboulet has a clear vision for the second phase in this partnership's development, saying, "I would love to buy some vineyards; it's just a case now of looking for the right opportunity." Despite, or precisely because of Perrin's base in the southern Rhône, Jaboulet asserts that this new project will remain exclusively northern in focus. "It has to be complementary to Perrin and the northern Rhône is a lovely appellation, there's enough to do there."

The 2010 vintage will see Nicolas Perrin supply its own barrels to the growers' cellars, thereby avoiding the need to disturb the wines too much when they are transferred into the company's care for the final stages of their development. Jaboulet explains: "We will try more and more to control the vinification, but at the same time the philosophy of the project is to blend the different styles of our growers and leave that personality in our wine."

To begin with, Nicolas Perrin has released a 4-strong range: '07 reds from St Joseph, Côte Rôtie and Hermitage, from where the company has also produced an '08 white Roussanne/Marsanne blend. Next year it will add Cornas, Condrieu and Crozes-Hermitage to this portfolio.

With all the tweaks, developments and additions planned for future vintages, the promising quality and character of the debut wines looks set to become yet more pronounced.

For the moment, Jaboulet is clearly relishing the demands of his busy schedule. "It's lovely to launch a brand and create something new", he beams, "People are curious because they love Perrin wines and I've been in the trade for 16 years."

Certainly the progress of Nicolas Perrin offers an intriguing glimpse of the next generation making its mark on this illustrious corner of the Old World.

Gabriel Savage, 01.07.2010

You can see the original of this article here.


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New wines appear continuously, but rarely with the pedigree and quality of Maison Nicolas Perrin 2007 St. Joseph.


Maison Nicolas Perrin combines members from two great French wine families. Nicolas comes from Nicolas Jaboulet, family member of France's renowned Jaboulet winery. That he can't use his last name on the new wine label results from the 2006 sale agreement of Jaboulet's prized northern Rhone Valley vineyards and business to Jean-Jacques Frey, owner of Bordeaux's Chateau La Lagune. Perrin is the family that owns the outstanding Chateau de Beaucastel in the southern Rhone Valley village, Chateauneuf-du-Pape.


Jaboulet, 38, and Marc Perrin, 40, formed a joint venture buying red wines from the northern Rhone just after the alcoholic fermentation (the process of changing grape juice to wine). The wine is transferred to barrels that were used for one vintage with Chateau Beaucastel's white wine, than aged and bottled at Beaucastel.


In March, Jaboulet previewed the four wines that Maison Nicolas Perrin delivered in April to the New Jersey market: Hermitage Blanc, Ermitage Rouge (the ancient spelling for Hermitage), Cote-Rotie and St. Joseph, all from the 2007 vintage.


The first three wines are all tasty renditions whose prices ($75-$90 dollars a bottle) put them in the "special occasion" category where Hermitage and Cote-Rotie are nearly always found. The St. Joseph, however, represents a better buying opportunity because the appellation is unknown and the wine is well-made.


Like the Ermitage and Cote-Rotie, St. Joseph is made from Syrah. But it differs from both of its prestigious neighbors because French wine regulations allow up to 10 percent blending with two indigenousness Rhone Valley white grapes, roussanne and marsanne. In my experience, St. Joseph benefits from blending as the syrah in this appellation can produce a rough-and-ready red wine. Maison Nicolas Perrin added a few percentage points of white wine to its St. Joseph.


The 2007 Maison Nicolas Perrin St. Joseph is a bright ruby-colored wine. Blackberry and a mix of clove and cinnamon scents please the nose; the mouth receives ripe blackberry and black cherry flavors with tannin and acidity that lets you know this is a wine to be paired with rib eye steak, grilled lamb chops, and other robust foods.


The 2007 wines are Maison Nicolas Perrin's debut; the young scions of these two superb winemaking families are bringing to their new venture the professional dedication that is part of their DNA. This first vintage was made in minuscule quantities, and New Jersey received a few cases of each wine, so don't delay in getting yours.


John Foy.


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91 points.

Reserved, with yellow apple, Cavaillon melon, green plum and pear skin flavors held together with a salted butter note. A nice quinine twinge adds length on the full-bodied finish. Drink now through 2012


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In Wine Spectator Insider, July 7 2010.

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90 points.


Still a touch tight, with racy acidity carrying the mix of blackberry, red currant and spice cake notes, while a briary edge frames the tangy finish. Should flesh out nicely with brief cellaring.


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In WineSpectator, April 30 2010.
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92 points. 

Dark and alluring, with inviting crushed blackcurrant, blackberry and black cherry fruit that's liberally laced with mouthwatering black tea, incense and maduro tobacco notes. The long finish has nice grip. Big and mouthfilling, especially for the vintage. Drink now through 2018.


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In Wine Spectator Insider, July 7 2010.
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92 points. 

A rather ripe, well-toasted style, with lots of mocha and dark licorice up front, backed by plum pudding, fruitcake and currant paste notes. The long, toast-driven finish has nice grip. Rock solid, mouthfilling style. Drink now through 2015.

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In Wine Spectator Insider, July 7 2010.